The Short Answer: It Depends on Your Direction of Travel
The Bernina Express runs between Chur or St. Moritz in Switzerland and Tirano in northern Italy, crossing the UNESCO-listed Rhaetian Railway through some of the most dramatic mountain scenery in Europe. The route is not a straight line, and the train curves, reverses, and spirals through the Alps, which means the best side for views shifts depending on which direction you are traveling and which landmarks matter most to you.
Traveling from St. Moritz to Tirano, the general rule of thumb is to sit on the right side of the train. This puts you closest to the Morteratsch Glacier as you pull away from Pontresina, and it gives you a strong vantage point over the Lago Bianco at the Bernina Pass, the highest point on the route at 2,253 meters. The lake sits right beside the tracks and practically fills your window when conditions are clear.
If you are traveling from Tirano to St. Moritz, simply reverse the logic and take the left side. The same landmarks appear, just from the opposite angle. Some travelers actually prefer this direction because the ascent up to the Bernina Pass feels more gradual and the views build slowly before the dramatic high-alpine plateau reveals itself.
One landmark that deserves special attention is the Brusio Spiral Viaduct near the Italian end of the route. This circular stone bridge loops the train around itself to manage a steep descent without conventional switchbacks. From either side of the train you will get a partial view, but sitting on the left side when traveling St. Moritz to Tirano gives you the clearest look at the full spiral as the train circles around it. It lasts only a couple of minutes, so keep your camera ready before you reach Brusio station.
Practical Tips for Getting the Best Seat
Seat reservations on the Bernina Express are mandatory, and they fill up fast, especially between June and October. Book as early as possible and specifically request a window seat on your preferred side when making the reservation. The panoramic coaches have extra-large windows that tilt slightly, which helps reduce glare and makes photography much easier than on a standard rail car.
Try to avoid seats directly next to the connector sections between carriages. The view from those positions is partially blocked by the carriage walls and the gangway structure. Mid-carriage window seats give the cleanest sightlines in every direction.
Morning departures generally offer better light for photography, particularly for the glacier sections where harsh afternoon sun can flatten the snow and ice into a white wash. The 9:00 departure from St. Moritz tends to hit the Bernina Pass around midday, which still works well for photos in spring and early summer when the light stays soft longer.
If you are planning a Bernina Red Train day trip from Milan, you will be traveling northbound toward St. Moritz, so prioritize the left side for the glacier and high-pass views. Those combining the Bernina with a broader Swiss rail adventure might also consider pairing it with a Swiss Alps train tour from Zurich with the Glacier Express for a fuller picture of what Alpine rail travel offers. For those who want more flexibility and a tailored experience, a Bernina Train private tour from Milan or St. Moritz lets you plan around the best light and stops rather than a fixed timetable.
Whichever side you choose, the Bernina Express rewards preparation. A little planning before you board makes the difference between scrambling for a view and sitting back to watch one of the great Alpine journeys unfold right outside your window.